Project Bona Fide

An off-grid permaculture farm on Ometepe Island, Nicaragua, in 2013: one pair of shorts, digging and hauling water, and the first chocolate I ever made.

At a glance

Role
Volunteer
When
April to May 2013
Where
Balgüe, Ometepe, Nicaragua
Scope
Farm labor and permaculture study on an off-grid education farm
A curved sink and basin covered in blue and white mosaic tile among flowering shrubs, with a lake and blue sky behind
Finca Bona Fide, Ometepe, Nicaragua, 2013.

Results

  • May 2013The first chocolate I ever made, in a cook’s home on Ometepe

After Rancho Margot I headed north to Nicaragua, wanting to go deeper into permaculture without knowing where. In early April 2013 I stalled the rental car five times before I made it out of the lot in San Juan del Sur. A few weeks later I was living on a farm on Ometepe, the island of twin volcanoes in Lake Nicaragua.

No walls, no door

It was my first time in Nicaragua. My first nights in San Juan del Sur I stayed at Casa Oro, the chill-yet-social hostel in town. I had no idea what that building would become for me.

Project Bona Fide, in Balgüe, is an off-grid permaculture education farm. Volunteers worked five or six hours a day, five days a week, and paid $250 a month for the education, the food and a bed. Mine was a slice of foam under a mosquito net in an open-air hut. No walls. No furniture. There wasn’t even a door. I wore one pair of shorts, no shoes and no shirt, and bathed in the lake. I did all the manual grunt labor: dug holes, gardened, carried water, fed termite nests to the chickens, killed scorpions. The toilet was a wooden seat over a container and two scoops of sawdust; over time it all turned into soil.

It was nothing like Chicago, and it felt strangely natural.

Design inspired by nature

Permaculture is design inspired by nature, and I studied it the only way that stuck: reading, asking questions, and getting my hands and feet very dirty. A composting toilet, a food forest, a roof that catches its own water. Each one solves a problem by copying a pattern something wild already worked out.

I started seeing those patterns as answers to problems in business and in society too. I also knew I was an infant in this world, and I wanted to keep learning.

Chocolate, by hand

In May 2013, at a home on the island, a local cook named Clemen invited us into her home to learn to make Nicaraguan chocolate. I’d never done it. I posted a photo the same day: learning to make real chocolate from a Nicaraguan boss woman, who wants some? Six years later I started a chocolate company in San Juan del Sur, a short trip south of that kitchen.

What came next

A week before I left Bona Fide, an email came from Victor Saad: he was starting a school called the Experience Institute. It smelled like synchronicity. I joined the founding class that fall and spent the next year turning what I’d started on farms in Costa Rica and Nicaragua into practice.

What I did

  • Signed on at an off-grid permaculture education farm on Ometepe: five or six hours of work a day, five days a week
  • Dug holes, gardened, hauled water, fed termite nests to the chickens and killed scorpions
  • Lived in an open-air hut with no walls and no door, in one pair of shorts, and bathed in the lake
  • Studied permaculture design by reading, asking questions and getting my hands and feet very dirty
  • Made chocolate for the first time, in May 2013, in the home of a local cook, Clemen
  • Wrote and photographed the whole stint on the blog

Deliverables

  • Daily farm labor for Project Bona Fide’s gardens, water and animals
  • My first batch of Nicaraguan chocolate, made by hand with Clemen
  • Field notes and photos from Ometepe on the blog

Skills

  • Permaculture design basics
  • Manual farm work: digging, planting, hauling water
  • Living and working off the grid
  • Learning a new field fast, by doing it

What I learned

Nature has had billions of years of research and development. On Ometepe I started looking there first.

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